Dinner Tonight: Tacos take a trip to North Africa

Tacos are a traditional food of Mexico, sure, but they also provide a canvas for endless improvisation. This version is mostly true to its roots until you get to the topping, flavored with North African harissa.

Made with red chilies, spices and oil, the sauce delivers a spiciness that can vary in heat levels. Stirred into mayonnaise, an idea borrowed from Wave Restaurant, it makes a crowd-pleasing dip for fingerling potatoes, or a topping for just about any savory dish, such as these tacos. You'll have plenty left over from this dish to experiment.

Look for harissa sauce in larger grocery stores or Middle Eastern markets. Before using, taste a bit to check the heat level.

Tips: The harissa topping would work equally well with fish, shrimp or pork.

For dessert, stir together pitted, halved apricots and Bing cherries in a simple syrup flavored with fresh ginger.

• GRILLED CHICKEN TACOS WITH HARISSA MAYO

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Yield: Four servings

Look for harissa sauce in larger grocery stores or Middle Eastern markets.

1 to 2 teaspoons bottled or canned harissa sauce

1⁄2 cup mayonnaise

1 small jicama, diced (about 1 cup)

1 avocado, pitted, peeled, diced

1 small red onion, diced

Juice from 1 lemon

2 tablespoons olive oil

1⁄2 teaspoon salt, divided use

6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs

8 (6-inch) flour tortillas

1⁄4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Procedure

1. Stir the harissa into mayonnaise in a small bowl; taste for spiciness. Add more harissa or more mayonnaise according to taste; set aside.

2. Prepare a grill for medium heat. Meanwhile, combine the jicama, avocado and onion in a bowl; stir in the lemon juice, olive oil, 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste.

3. Season the chicken with remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste; grill, turning as needed, until done, about five minutes per side. Cut chicken into small dice or shred (cubes will be faster; shredding gives better texture). Warm tortillas on the grill until softened, taking care not to burn.

4. Divide chicken among tortillas; top with about 2 tablespoons of jicama mixture. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon harissa mayonnaise or to taste; top with cilantro. Fold tortilla around filling.