Summer's bounty brings out best in wine

There's no better time to discover the intensity of fresh produce than summer. And El Dorado County, located about 65 miles southeast of the Yuba-Sutter area, is a pleasant day-trip destination to find wines that enhance the summer's bounty.

So what are El Dorado winemakers eating and drinking during the hot days and cool nights of the season? Here's a hint: Their inspiration comes from nearby farms.

Winemaker Vaughn Jodar will wait it out until the summer season bestows him with what he considers to be a perfect, indispensable ingredient.

"If summer was a flavor, it would taste a lot like a fresh, locally grown tomato," he said. "I wait for the hot weather to do its magic, and when the tomatoes are just right, I know just which wines to pair them with."

For Jodar, a fresh bruschetta pairs perfectly with his silken 2005 Sangiovese. "It just adores tomatoes and garlic," he said. "The delightful aroma and taste of strawberry jam in the wine really shine."

But he isn't the only winemaker in his region to love the casual, fresh food and wine pairings of the season.

Sierra Vista Winery's John MacCready drinks whites and pinks while his grill is in full operation all summer long. "We're grilling almost every day, and we experiment with flavors," he said. A recent winner: chicken thighs marinated in apricot brandy marinade, paired with one of his newer whites — a refreshing roussanne.

"The 2006 vintage leads with citrus flavors, like lime and lemon peel, making it the right choice when a hot day requires a cool balance," he said. Slices of locally grown stone fruits, like nectarines, peaches and plums, add to the dish's presentation.

Paul Bush of Madroña Vineyards often craves rich flavors that will stand up assertively to a juicy steak or spicy chicken. For him, it's a zin. "Summer's full-bodied, spicy meats demand a wine that isn't shy or tentative," he explained.

"This season, I'll entertain with our 2005 Zinfandel. I love it because of its bold marriage of fruit and spice with ripe plum, raspberry, cherry and pepper notes, and just a hint of clove and cinnamon." Bush said he will be drinking his classic El Dorado zinfandel with another seasonal favorite: tree-ripened, grilled peaches and fresh goat cheese.

Lava Cap and Sierra Oaks are other El Dorado wineries that offer zinfandels that belong near the grill or by the pool — perfect complements to slow, languorous summer evenings. The 2005 Lava Cap Reserve Zinfandel is capable of balancing a tangy barbecue sauce, while the smoky aroma and full body of the Sierra Oaks NV "Zinzabar," a blend of 62 percent zinfandel and 38 percent barbera, works with grilled chicken or a nice Italian pasta dish. Top off these meals with a fresh berry cobbler, and you have a winning summer treat.

For the full enjoyment of fresh fruits or quick stir-fries chock full of the season's best produce, Stefan Tscheppe of Perry Creek Winery suggests their 2006 Muscat Canelli. "The fresh character of this wine reminds me of tasting ripe grapes at harvest time," he said. A hint of melon and mint flavors, backed by a lively acidity and a hint of residual sugar, create a refreshingly fizzy sensation on the palate.

El Dorado winemaker Brian Fitzpatrick has a hard time choosing from so many wonderful wines during the summer season. "When the sun starts setting, we're scrambling for a quick and tasty meal to prepare and enjoy with a chilled glass of wine," he said. Fitzpatrick often recreates a favorite "tried and true" scallops recipe to go with his organically grown sauvignon blanc bearing the Irish name of Eire Ban.

"We developed our recipe back in 1984, and we still look forward to preparing it today." He'll add a fresh salad or organically grown vegetables lightly tossed in olive oil.

Slices of toasted baguette and a summertime eggplant mixture are offered at Justin Boeger's home along with his favorite wines. Boeger, who is the winemaker for his family's business near Placerville, uses an Eggplant Caponata recipe developed especially for the winery's special events.

"I open up a bottle of our Primitivo to enjoy while I cook," he explained. "Then, I mix together fresh eggplant, basil, capers, tomato sauce and kalamata olives. ... I wouldn't be a Boeger if I didn't add a little of the wine to the mixture as well." His 2005 Primitivo is bold yet lush enough to work with the caponata, due in part to its subtle acidity and soft tannins.

• JODAR'S BRUSCHETTA

The key to good bruschetta is good tomatoes. Experiment with a variety of types and colors in this recipe, including heirlooms and hybrids. Also, the more acidic your tomatoes, the more basil you may think about adding.

11⁄2 pounds tomatoes, seeded, diced

1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1⁄3 cup fresh basil leaves, finely slivered

Salt and finely ground pepper, to taste

Procedure

Combine all ingredients. If the sauce seems dry, don't worry — the longer it sits, the juicier it becomes.

For classic bruschetta, slice ciabatta bread in generous slices, brush with olive oil, rub with garlic clove and grill until you've got good grill marks. Let your guests spoon the sauce onto the grilled bread. They won't stop eating until the bruschetta is gone.

Serve with almost any red wine, especially Jodar Sangiovese and Barbera.

Variations: Add finely chopped red onion or capers instead of garlic. Well rinsed and drained bay shrimp may also be added.

• Madroña Grilled Peaches with Chevre

2 fresh peaches, sliced

8 ounces chevre (fresh goat cheese)

French baguette

Extra-virgin olive oil

Procedure

Slice baguette into thin slices. Toast in oven until crisp. Gently brush with olive oil and spread with a thin layer of chevre. While baguette is toasting, slice peaches into 1-inch segments. Grill over medium heat for one minute on each side, then place directly onto chevre. Serve immediately.

Serve with zinfandel, such as Madroña Vineyards 2005 Zinfandel.

• Eggplant Caponata

From the kitchen of Tara De La Rosa, Boeger Winery.

1 large eggplant, cubed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, sliced

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon capers, drained

1⁄4 cup red wine, such as Boeger Primitivo

1 cup Italian tomato sauce

1⁄4 cup kalamata olives, chopped

1⁄4 cup fresh basil, chopped

1 baguette, thinly sliced, toasted

Procedure

Quarter eggplant lengthwise; scoop out very seedy parts and discard. Cut eggplant into cubes and place in colander. Sprinkle with salt and lightly toss until all pieces are evenly coated. Set colander in sink; top with a sturdy, weighted plate and let drain for one hour. Rinse the eggplant cubes of excess salt and pat dry. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Spread the eggplant on a greased cooking sheet and bake for 35 minutes, or until nicely browned.

In a large skillet, add olive oil. Add onion and cook over moderate heat until tender. Add garlic and cook for an additional minute. Add eggplant to the skillet. Stir in capers, olives, balsamic vinegar and red wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Add the tomato sauce and continue to cook over low heat until thickened. Taste mixture; season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl to cool. Spread the caponata on baguette toasts and garnish with basil.

Serve with Boeger Primitivo.

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For more summer recipe ideas and the winemakers' wine pairing suggestions, visit the El Dorado Winery Association's Web site at www.eldoradowines.org