Beans & greens

Greens have become chic, their vibrant flavor profiles showcased on hoity-toity menus from coast to coast. Kale, collard greens and chard; beet greens, turnip greens, mustard greens and spinach.

Most often chefs have veered away from the traditional Southern approach that simmers greens for hours. Quick cooking is trendier, heating just long enough to soften the leaves.

Or they are featured raw in cold dishes. Chefs use the tender leaves of immature "microgreen" leaves mixed with other lettuces in salads. The leaves are tender and milder, harvested when only 14 to 20 days old. Baby beet greens, mustard greens, turnip greens and kale are often used this way.

Raw baby spinach is de rigueur as the main event in salads, often used without including another green or lettuce.

For home cooks, greens can be the centerpiece of quick-to-prepare family meals, especially if they are teamed with canned beans. Whether used in hot or cold dishes, greens and beans are a scrumptious match for summertime suppers. The flavors and textures play off one another. The soft, creamy beans are a luscious foil for the slightly sour taste and vegetal texture of the greens.

Delicious. Plus the greens are high in vitamin A, vitamin C and folic acid. The beans, a good protein source, are rich in energy-giving complex carbohydrates, B vitamins, zinc, potassium, magnesium, calcium and iron.

Canned beans can be fairly high in sodium, so always taste the dish before adding salt.

The beans-and-greens theme works delectably in salads, pasta dishes and one-pot stew-like entrees. Here are five examples that are perfect for fast dinners in the warm-weather months ahead:

QUICK ONE-POT CANNELLINI AND CHARD

Yield: Four servings

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use

2 ounces 1/4-inch-wide cubed pancetta, see cook's notes

3 large cloves garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

2 large bunches of chard, stems removed, cut into 1-inch crosswise strips (about 10 to 11 cups)

1/2 cup chicken broth, vegetable broth or water, see cook's notes

1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, see cook's notes

1 teaspoon sherry wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook's notes: Pancetta is a type of dry cured meat, similar to bacon but not smoked. It is pork belly that has been salt-cured and is often spiced with black pepper, plus nutmeg and fennel seeds. If you wish a soupier dish, add more broth or water.

Procedure

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large deep skillet on medium-high heat. Add pancetta and cook until starting to crisp, about two to four minutes (reduce heat, if necessary, to prevent overbrowning). Add garlic and red pepper flakes; stir and cook 30 to 40 seconds. If you turned the heat down, turn it back to medium-high. Add chard, one big handful at a time, stirring a little between additions to start the wilting process before adding the next handful.

Add broth, cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer two to four minutes, or until chard is completely wilted, stirring mixture once during cooking. Increase heat to medium-high. Remove lid. Add beans and cook until heated through, about one to two minutes. Stir in vinegar. Taste; add salt and pepper if needed. Spoon into shallow bowls and top with a drizzle of the remaining olive oil.

EASY GREEK SALAD WITH GRILLED CHICKEN AND GARBANZO BEANS

Yield: Four servings

2 chicken breasts, boned, skinned

Vegetable or canola oil for brushing on grate

Salt (or seasoned salt such as Lawry's) and freshly ground black pepper

2/3 pound fresh asparagus, tough ends trimmed, brushed with extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

4 ounces crumbled feta cheese

1/3 cup pitted, drained kalamata olives

1-1/2 cups grape tomatoes or halved cherry tomatoes

1 baby cucumber (Persian cucumber), ends trimmed, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1/2 cup drained canned garbanzo beans

1-1/2 cup pita chips

2 cups baby spinach or baby arugula, or some of each

For serving: small lemon wedges

Procedure

Preheat grill. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Grill chicken on clean, oiled grate until thoroughly cooked and no longer pink, turning once. Grill asparagus, placing it diagonal or perpendicular to the grate, until just beginning to soften. Grilling times will vary according to the width of the asparagus. Cool chicken and asparagus (until cool enough to handle).

Prepare dressing: In a small bowl or a measuring cup with a handle, whisk lemon juice, 1/3 cup olive oil, oregano and thyme until well combined.

In a large bowl, combine cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumber, garbanzos and dressing; toss. Cut chicken into crosswise slices about 1/4-inch thick. Cut asparagus into pieces about 1- to 1-1/4-inches long. Add chicken and asparagus to cheese mixture. Add pita chips and spinach or arugula. Toss. Taste; if needed add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve. Pass lemon wedges for guests to use to squeeze over salad if they wish.

PASTA WITH ROASTED GARLIC, SAUSAGE, SPINACH AND BEANS

Yield: Four to six servings

1 head of garlic

1 teaspoon olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons, divided use

6 ounces hot Italian sausage, removed from casings

1 medium-size, sweet onion, chipped

1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, drained, or 3 medium-size fresh plum tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 (15- to 19-ounce) can white beans or cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 pound rotini (corkscrew pasta), gemelli or medium-size shells

1 cup baby spinach, roughly chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, divided use

Procedure

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Using sharp knife, cut off 1/3 of the pointed end of unpeeled garlic head. Enclose in aluminum foil, cut-side up; open slightly and drizzle with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Or, to reduce fat, use 1 tablespoon water. Leave the foil open slightly at top. Roast garlic in preheated oven for about 30 minutes or until cloves are soft. When cool enough to handle, invert and squeeze cloves from papery sheath into a small bowl and mash to a paste with a fork. Put a large pot of salted water on high heat to cook the pasta.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, deep skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Cook sausage, breaking it up with a spatula, until browned, about four minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about three minutes. Stir in tomatoes, beans, garlic paste, and broth; simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened and reduced by half, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente (tender but with a little bite); drain in a colander. Toss pasta with sausage mixture, spinach, parsley, basil, half of the cheese in a large bowl. Taste; add salt if needed. Pass remaining cheese for optional topping.

WHITE BEAN SALAD

Yield: Six to eight

Vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon minced shallot or garlic

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

3/4 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2-1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

If needed, salt and pepper to taste

Salad: 3 cans (15 ounces each) cannellini beans, drained

1/2 cup chopped red onion

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup chopped or torn fresh dill, or mint or basil

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 to 6 cups baby arugula or watercress

Procedure

In the bottom of a clean jar, mash together the shallot or garlic, mustard, brown sugar, salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce. Add vinegar, lemon juice and olive oil. Cover and shake well to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste.

In a large bowl, combine beans in large bowl with red onion, parsley, herb of choice, salt (if needed) and pepper. Gently toss in the dressing. Divide arugula or watercress between plates. Top greens with bean mixture.

• • •

This tasty vegetarian stew can be served either hot or at room temperature. The recipe calls for baby spinach, but if you like, you can substitute strips of stemmed chard or kale, but because the leaves are more leathery, a little longer cooking time is required. Sometimes I use half white beans and half garbanzo beans. I like to accompany the dish with piping hot garlic bread.

VEGETABLES, GREENS AND WHITE BEANS SCENTED WITH BAY LEAVES

Yield: Four servings

2 cups canned vegetable broth

4 medium carrots, sliced into 3-inch-long matchsticks

8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 bay leaves, preferably fresh bay leaves, lightly bruised

1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans or other white beans, rinsed, drained

3 cups fresh baby spinach

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lemon, cut in half

1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Procedure

In a 6-quart pot with a tight-fitting cover, combine broth, carrots, garlic and bay leaves. Bring to simmer on high heat; cover and reduce heat and cook eight to 10 minutes, or until carrots are tender.

Add beans, spinach, salt and pepper; stir to wilt spinach. Cover and cook five minutes or until spinach is wilted and beans are heated through.

Squeeze juice of the lemon into the pot. Remove bay leaves and serve stew with drizzles of olive oil and sprinklings of grated Parmigiano.

BUYING AND STORING GREENS

Look for greens with brightly colored leaves with no sign of wilting or discoloration. They should smell fresh.

With the exception of prewashed spinach (sold sealed in a bag), wash leaves before storing. Rinse in a tub of cold water; repeat if necessary until water is clear and free of grit. Shake off excess water or drain in a colander; wrap damp leaves in kitchen towel or paper towels and place in plastic bag.

Refrigerate in crisper drawer up to three days.