Bacon makes the food

I don't have a tattoo. But if I ever get one, I know exactly what it will look like. It will be a large crimson heart up high on my fork-lifting arm. Angled across, in big, black block letters, will be the name of one of my greatest loves.

No, the name won't be that of my dear husband, mother or puppy dog, although I truly love them. No, big and bold, it will say, "BACON."

The alluring backwoods scent of bacon can wake me from the deepest sleep. My bacon-loving palate knows the aroma promises the perfect balance of sweet-salty smokiness, and a texture that showcases both chewy, lean meat and crisp, coat-your-mouth fat. "Bacon appeals to all our senses, one of the few foods we can say that about," said James Villas, the cookbook author who has established himself as an authority on Southern cooking with books such as "My Mother's Southern Kitchen" and "The Glory of Southern Cooking." His latest book, "The Bacon Cookbook" (Wiley, $35), glorifies my favorite food.

"Start with the aroma: Who can resist? Even those with religious convictions and vegetarians are often tempted," he said, adding that the textural aspects are also an important part of bacon's allure.

"Depending on how you cook the bacon and the quality of that bacon, you have a wonderful crunch, or a chewy quality. Fry it completely, you get crunchy. Undercook and you get chewy. If the quotient of fat to lean is right, it's miraculous."

In his book, Villas explores a variety of international bacon styles. But for the most part, the focus of our discussion was American-produced streaky bacon, the most common style of sliced bacon available in the marketplace and online from artisanal producers. It's a cured and/or smoked slab of pork belly with an average ratio of about two-thirds fat to one-third lean meat.

"Some commercial bacon is a good product, but in the market you have to pull out the packages and look at them," he said, adding that it makes him crazy to see shoppers just pick the package on top without inspecting it. "The fat should be pure white, and if it's not, throw it back. If it's yellow, it is close to rancid.

"I look for the right ratio of fat to lean, half fat and half lean. And because I like it chewy, I like it sliced 1⁄8-inch thick."

What about those beautiful artisanal bacons? More and more local stores are stocking them.

"About 10 years ago, Nueske's in Wisconsin and Niman Ranch in California began trying to revive premium American artisanal bacon. Now every state has producers for top-notch bacon. Niman Ranch has their own farmers raising specified breeds."

When I asked about his favorite artisanal bacon producer, he said it is the Lazy H Smokehouse, partially because he is so fond of the owner.

"Velma Willet in Kirbyville, Texas, has been in the bacon business since she was a little girl," he said. "She learned how to produce bacon from relatives and now is probably in her 70s. She still goes into the smokehouse every day. Order it by telephone (409-423-3309) and she is the one that will probably take the order. She will mail it to you; there aren't any Internet sales."

Willet's bacon is oaksmoked and produced from special Texas hogs. Villas' book lists 22 sources for artisanal bacon, among them the Grateful Palate in Oxnard (www.grateful palate.com).

Grateful, indeed. For $150 the Grateful Palate will enroll clients in the Bacon of the Month Club and send them a different bacon every month for a year. I plan to sign my husband up for full benefits. After excluding him from my fantasy tattoo, it's the least I can do.

Here are 10 scrumptious things to make with bacon. The first four are from Villas' book.

• Louisiana Shrimp Creole: This is a great party dish. Cut 2 thick bacon slices into tiny pieces. In large pot, fry bacon on medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Add 2 medium, chopped onions; 2 stalks chopped celery; 1 minced garlic clove; and 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped. Cook, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes. Add one (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes (chopped with their juices); 1⁄4 teaspoon dried, crumbled basil; 1 bay leaf; salt and pepper to taste; 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce; and hot sauce such as Tabasco to taste. Bring to low simmer, cover and cook until mixture thickens, 25-30 minutes. Add 1 pound fresh medium (shelled and deveined) shrimp and the reserved bacon (crumbled). Cook, uncovered, until shrimp turn pink and curl, about 8 minutes. Serve over cooked rice. I like to put a smidgen of crumbled, crisp bacon on the top for garnish.

• Bacon-Parmesan Biscuits: In large skillet over medium heat, fry 1⁄2 pound lean, applewood-smoked bacon slices until crisp; drain on paper towels, cool and crumble. Preheat oven to 425 degrees and lightly grease a large baking sheet. In large bowl, whisk 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon baking powder, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Add 1⁄3 cup chilled vegetable shortening, and cut into flour with pastry cutter until mixture is mealy. Add bacon, 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and 1 cup milk. Stir until dry ingredients are well moistened. Place dough on lightly floured surface and knead no more than 4 or 5 times. Pat out until 1⁄2-inch thick. Cut out biscuits with 2-inch round cutter. Pat scraps together and cut out more rounds. Place biscuits on prepared sheet about 1⁄2 inch apart. Bake in upper third of oven about 12-15 minutes or until golden.

• Cobb Salad: Back in 1936, when Robert Cobb made the first Cobb Salad at the Brown Derby restaurant in Hollywood, he created a classic American dish in which bacon is pivotal. Villas likes to use thick-cut, hickory-smoked bacon in his (recipe follows).

• Grilled Bacon-Wrapped Dates: Served as a popular tapa in Spain, these luscious appetizers are traditionally wrapped in Spanish bacon, but here lean, streaky American bacon, preferably artisanal, works well. Start by positioning oven rack about 4 to 5 inches from broiler element; preheat broiler. Stuff 16 pitted dates with 16 whole blanched almonds. Cut 6 bacon slices into crosswise thirds. Wrap each stuffed date with bacon and place seam side down on slotted broiler pan (place slotted pan over bottom pan lined with aluminum foil). Broil until crisp on one side, about 5 minutes. Turn and broil on other side. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm or at room temperature.

• Southern Fried Cabbage: This inexpensive dish teams beautifully with poultry or game, or serve it with rice for a tasty entrée. Shred 1 mediumsize, cored cabbage and set aside. In deep, large skillet over medium heat, fry 4 to 5 bacon slices until crisp. Remove (leaving fat in skillet) and drain bacon on paper towels. Add cabbage and hearty pinch of dried red pepper flakes to skillet; toss. Fry, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until tender. Crumble bacon and add to cabbage. Add salt, if needed, and pepper to taste. If you prefer, before frying replace half of bacon grease with vegetable or canola oil.

• Hot Bacon Dressing: Spoon this tasty dressing over baked potatoes, steamed cauliflower or grilled fish. Or for a wilted spinach salad, toss dressing with raw baby spinach. Cook 1⁄2 pound bacon (about 8 strips) in large skillet over medium heat until crisp. With slotted spoon or fork, transfer bacon to drain on paper towels. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of bacon grease from skillet. Add 1⁄4 cup water and 1⁄4 cup cider vinegar. Simmer, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste. Crumble bacon and add just before serving (from "The Gourmet Cookbook" edited by Ruth Reichl; Houghton Mifflin, $40).

7. The Best Omelet: Make a mouth-watering filling with crisp-fried bacon (crumbled), shredded white cheddar cheese and blanched diced Yukon Gold potatoes.

Cobb Salad

Yield: 6 generous servings

6 slices thick bacon

4 chicken breasts

2 green onions, cut in several pieces, use part of dark green stalks

1 stalk celery, cut in half

1 bay leaf

6 whole peppercorns

4 cups chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed, rinsed, dried, chilled

1⁄2 large head romaine lettuce, rinsed, dried, chilled

1⁄2 head iceberg lettuce, chilled

4 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled, coarsely chopped

2 ripe avocados, peeled, seeded, diced, and sprinkled with fresh lemon juice

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

2 ounces Roquefort or blue cheese, crumbled

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1⁄2 cup red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 cup olive oil

In large skillet, fry bacon over medium heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels and crumble.

Arrange chicken breasts in large, deep skillet or medium baking pan and add green onions, celery, bay leaf, peppercorns, broth, salt, pepper, and just enough water to cover, if necessary. Bring to boil on high heat; reduce to low and poach chicken at the barest simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool in broth.

With slotted spoon, transfer chicken to work surface. Discard skin and bones. Cut meat into 1⁄2-inch cubes. Place in mixing bowl. Pull or shred greens into bite-size pieces; add to chicken. Add eggs, avocado, tomatoes, bacon, cheese and chives; gently toss to mix.

In small bowl, whisk vinegar, mustard, Worcestershire, plus salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in oil. Pour dressing over salad and toss until ingredients are well coated. To serve, mound salad on serving platter or divide equally among individual salad plates.

Nutritional information (per serving without rice): Calories 460 (43 percent from fat), protein 40.0g, carbohydrates 26.0g, fat 22.0g (saturated 10.0 g), cholesterol 101 mg, sodium 899mg, fiber 5.0 g

Source: "The Bacon Cookbook" by James Villas (Wiley, $35)